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The West Kootenay mountains of British Columbia (BC) are great destination for a road trip with mountains ranges, ghost towns, hot springs and lake ferry crossings on the beautiful Arrow, Kootenay, Revelstoke and Slocan Lakes. The West Kootenays are in the south-central part of BC along the US border with the states of Washington and Idaho, where there are several boarder crossings (Cascade/Christina Lake, Paterson/Rossland, Waneta/Trail, Nelway/Salmo, Rykerts, Kingsgate and Roosville).
From Canada the West Kootenays can be accessed by several routes from B.C. or Alberta:
In B.C. travelers coming from Vancouver, on the Trans-Canada #1 Highway, can enter the area by going south from Revelstoke (Hwy. 23). Alternatively they can go south from Golden to Radium, on the west end Kootenay National Park, then continuing south to Cranbrook. It's also possible the travel south east from the Okanagan by going east from Vernon (Hwy. 6) or taking a twisted route that follows the U.S. border from Osoyoos.
From Alberta go west via Lake Louise to Golden or Revelstoke (as above) or travel from Banff to Radium via Kootenay National Park. The southern route, from Alberta, comes west via the Crowsnest Pass (Hwy. 3).
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Hot Springs
The TransCanada Highway, Golden, Radium, Cranbrook to Revelstoke or going the opposite direction is know as the Hot Springs Circle Route in B.C. 868 km (540 mi) where travelers can enjoy the area's hot mineral springs. The springs include, Fairmont, Lussier, Radium, Canyon, Nakusp and Ainsworth Hot Springs.
In the eastern part of the Kootenays, Fairmont Hot Springs, a short trek across the highway and up the rocks will lead you to the remains of the old bathhouse and carved-out baths in the rock. The more adventurous traveler may want to go to the undeveloped Lussier Hot Springs, north of Fairmont. The springs are made up of several rock pools with gravel bottoms. The hottest pool is up to 43C, and then the water cools as it flows down through the rest of the ponds towards the Lussier River. The small, icy river makes an excellent cold plunge.
To access the springs go east off Highway 93/95 at the Whiteswan Provincial Park exit (located 22 km North of Skookumchuck or 8 km South of Canal Flats). Take the Whiteswan Forestry Road up to the hot springs. It is a good condition gravel logging road that is accessible during the summer season with any vehicle. It is a 17 km drive up the road and be aware of the narrow winding section climbing up the Lussier gorge towards the end of the drive. There is a parking lot at the top with a change room/toilet and then a short walk down to the springs.
For those seeking an interesting developed hot spring experience, try going to Ainsworth Hot Springs, south of Kaslo. At these hot springs they have large warm pool and to the delight of many visitors a small hot pool fed by an arched cave, that you wade through the water and sit in faintly lit dripping, steamy cave. Much like a natural steam bath! The water in the small pool and cave is also naturally brown, yellow but it's perfectly harmless, For those wanting a quick cool-off, beside the small hot pool is a cold pool, that's fed by a man-made waterfall.
Those with an enjoyment of caving (spelunking/kersplunking) will want to visit the Cody Caves, just south of Ainsworth.
History
Don't miss the charming Village of Kaslo, which is the oldest incorporated community in the West Kootenays (1893). In addition to the well restored historical building, you can also visit the SS Moyie, the world's oldest intact passenger sternwheeler of its kind. It was also the last operating sternwheeler in western North America and is now permanently berthed in Kaslo.
South of Kaslo, with its dramatic lake and mountain setting, arts college, and well-preserved 19th century architecture, the city of Nelson, well off the beaten track in southeastern BC, has become a magnet for artists, writers, and filmmakers. Known to movie-goers as the location for the Steve Martin's 1986 film Roxanne, this lakeside spot is so rich with galleries, festivals, and cultural life it's been named, by John Villani in his book The 100 Best Small Arts Towns in America , as one Canada's leading arts towns. Nature play a role here too: the surrounding landscape, of snowy peaks, lakes, hot springs, and pristine but accessible parkland, is among the most beautiful -- and artistically inspiring -- in the province.
Throughout the West Kootenays are several abandoned mining towns, in various states of deterioration the ghost towns of Cody, Nashton, Retallack, Sandon (with it's collection of out-of-service Brill trolley buses), Three Forks/Alamo and Zincton. They are interesting for those that like to poke around amongst tossed timbers and decaying buildings.
Other notable historic towns in the West Kootenays are New Denver, on Slocam Lake, with its Nikkei Internment Memorial Centre (NIMC), the only interpretive centre in Canada dedicated to the history of the uprooting and internment of over 22,000 Canadians of Japanese heritage, during the Second World War.
For travelers interested in the history of the RCMP (formerly known as the Northwest Mounted Police) a visit to the Fort Steele Heritage Town, northeast of Cranbrook, would be worthwhile. There you can go back to the 19th century and even hike the last mile of the Dewdney Trail, the first all-Canadian route across southern British Columbia, completed in 1865.
For an rugged wilderness excursion, try the Purcell Wilderness Conservancy Provincial Park The Purcell's high mountains, pristine lakes, flowing grasslands, and alpine wildflower meadows draw adventurous backcountry trekkers. Other visitors come for the fishing, hiking, horseback riding, ski-touring, and wildlife viewing opportunities. Mountain climbers come to tackle such peaks as Mt. Findlay and Hamill, which are both over 3,600 m (11,000 ft) high. For backcountry trekkers, the historic Earl Grey Pass Trail traverses the northern portion of the conservancy, a rugged multi-day route that provides stunning views to experienced hikers.
Travel in the West Kootenays also involves crossing lakes by ferry. There are crossings at:
In order to make the best of adventure travel in Canada's north, we suggest that you purchase good, reliable guidebooks and maps. Click here for some suggestions.
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