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Ya'Gotta: Vacations Abound In Cariboo Country

By: Judi Lees
Source: Hellobc.com
Fishing on the Cariboo River
Photo: Fishing on the Cariboo River
Source: Travel Canada

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Freeze this picture-perfect moment. The late afternoon sunlight has bathed the far-reaching Chilcotin Plateau in a soft lemony hue. From our vantage point - reached on a dusty, backroad south from Williams Lake - we bask in the view of the Fraser River, a glittering ribbon that weaves a serpentine path between burnished canyons. It is a surreal scene, an untouched landscape unmarked by street signs and roadways. In fact, here you won't even find a street. The Cariboo Waggon Road, our current route, originated to transport supplies and goldseekers not sightseers.

It's about this time that I realize that I'm falling in love with British Columbia's Cariboo Chilcotin Coast. Who wouldn't? On this stretch, we've passed lonely, windblown lakes, trekked alongside rustic fences and spotted forgotten homesteads tucked into seas of yellow daisies. We've startled deer at the road's edge and smelled the wondrous fragrance of wild sage. It seems to me, that this is getting-away-from-it-all at its best.

This region, aptly known as ‘land without limits,' is bordered by the wild Cariboo and Columbia mountains to the east and the forested fjords of the central coast to the west. It is here that the legendary Wild West lives on. In addition to the glorious scenery, there is a mind-boggling choice of vacation options in this westerly region of the province, especially suited to those who wish to get way off the beaten tourist track.

Follow the Backroads to Barkerville: On a guided van tour, you meander sections of The Cariboo Waggon Road to step-back to the 1800s when thousands of hopeful goldseekers opened up this rugged country. You stop at sleepy towns and ranches that served as halfway houses for stagecoaches. You visit First Nations' villages, poke around quaint museums, dine in funky places that originated in the 1860s and overnight at hidden-away ranches steeped in cowboy culture. And drive, as described above, some of BC's most scenic backcountry.

Your enthusiastic and knowledgeable host, Brent Rutherford, regales you with stories before arriving at Barkerville where you are well primed to relive the raucous days after Billy Barker struck it rich in 1862. You spend two nights in the heritage town and have choices of outdoor activities on this ten-day, all-inclusive tour that runs June through September. (www.ramblinroadstours.com)

Take the kids to a ranch. A day in the life of a pint-size cowboy or cowgirl may begin by petting a cow, gathering eggs, cuddling a bunny or picking – and eating – strawberries. And is there a city kid who isn't fascinated by the action around a pig pen? Children are part of the daily routine at Siwash Lake Ranch because the family who runs the 12-guest, 160-acre working ranch just east of 70 Mile House, have two children.

"Although we have a full-time, experienced child care provider, we don't run a structured program," explains owner, Allyson Rogers. "The children may be on a scavenger hunt, then do crafts or learn about animal tracking. It always varies and it's always fun." An all-time favourite with tiny city slickers is helping look after the ranch animals –feeding a hungry pig is high on the hit parade.

Of course, this frees up parents to enjoy everything from riding the range to fly fishing, birding, hiking, canoeing or simply relaxing. "Most families love the mix of adult time melded with family activities. They experience precious quality time together," states Allyson. (www.siwashlakeranch.com)

There are more than two dozen guest ranches spread throughout this region. A couple of others that cater to kids are Springhouse Trails Ranch (www.springhousetrails.com) and Sundance Guest Ranch. (www.sundance-ranch.com)

Go fishing. Watch your guide. In almost slow motion, he casts his line to the tune of a gentle swish. Seconds after this ‘poetry in fly-fishing movement', he's reeling in a glittering rainbow trout. Now you try. It looks deceptively simple, so you practice. "Just cast to your comfort measure – if it is only ten feet, be happy with that for awhile," is this expert's gentle directive. Three minutes later your line pulls tight, and, following the guide's instructions, you have your own trout to admire, before returning it to its watery home.

This magical fish moment is brought to you time and again in this land spangled by 8,000 lakes. Another bonus is the hordes of resorts and ranches with fishing guides. At Chaunigan Lake Lodge (www.chaunigan.com), for example, experienced fishers have pulled in 10 fish a day and from Chilcotin Holidays Guest Ranch (www.chilcotinholidays.com), anglers have access to 25 remote, trout-rich waterways.

At fishing lodges, you can walk into a crystalline lake or be mesmerized by the call of a loon as you drift peacefully in a boat. Add an element of adventure and fly-in to a high mountain lake where your only company is moose and deer along the shoreline. Oh, and fish, lots of fish. Chaunigan Lake Lodge, for example, has six fly-in fishing lakes within a 70 mile radius.

For many, wading into a crystal-clear stream is the height of excitement and this part of the world is made for stream fishing. Fly-fishers revel in exploring the slow-moving, trout-rich waters of the Upper Dean River. Expert fishing guides at both Escott Bay Resort (www.escottbay.com) on Anahim Lake and The Dean on Nimpo (www.thedeanonnimpo.com) can introduce you to this part of the world that is revered by know-how anglers.

Feel good at a health ranch. Saddle up. Swim laps. Ride the range. Have a massage. Go mountain biking. Eat spa cuisine. Master the art of horse whispering. Discover a new lifestyle and lose weight.

Lose weight while in cowboy land? You bet, if you head to Hills Health Ranch. The 20-year-old sprawling ranch, covering 8080 hectares (20,000 acres), is many things to many holidayers. It has perfected a lifestyle program that welcomes guests from all over the world who return home many pounds lighter. And it is very much a guest ranch where you awaken in a woodsy setting, saddle up and head out to cover some of the 200 km (80 miles) of trails that weave through forests and ramble over ranchland.

As well, natural products such as rosehips, are being harvested at Hills in conjunction with the development of natural and healing products. (During your massage – there is an 18-room treatment spa - the oil utilized is their own.) There's no problem with saddle sores at this ranch stay. You depart with your whole body feeling brand new. (www.hillshealthranch.com)

If there is a better combo than a day in the saddle followed by a massage, I can't imagine it. At Echo Valley Ranch (www.evranch.com), think pagoda-style buildings amid stables and Thai massage – or other soothing spa treatments - that may follow a day in the saddle. This up-scale guest ranch has an Asian influence that is a recipe for relaxation teemed with soft adventure.

Sign up for adventure. In need of some heart-thudding activities? There is no better place for a big time adventure than this far-from-urban region.

Consider canoeing and think remote. British Columbia's best known canoe trip is the Bowron Lakes, accessible by road near Barkerville. Pathways Canada Tours (www.bowronlakes.com) is one of several companies that offers guided trips on these nine spectacular lakes acknowledged by Outside Magazine as being among the world's ten best canoe circuits.

Klemtu Kayaking. Picture a coastline, jagged with inlets, fringed by the dense green of old growth forests. Now put yourself in a kayak. The Central Coast of BC, in the heart of the Great Bear Rainforest, is to kayakers what fine wine is to connoisseurs. You depart from Klemtu on a First Nations' guided excursion to explore this coast - one of the last remains of pristine rainforest. This is home to the Kitasoo/Xaixais people and your guides w ill introduce you to their ancient culture. You will paddle into tucked-away sandy bays, ever watchful for the rare, white Kermode bear, known as the ‘spirit bear' by First Nations' people. This is a magical, memorable outdoor adventure. (www.klemtutourism.com)

Challenging Cycling. Itching to get in the bike saddle and do some extreme riding? Head to Williams Lake and check out groovy single tracks and smooth trannies with Adrenalin Mountain Adventures Inc. (www.adrenalinmountain.com). Scope out some gentle slopes before exploring Desous Mountain where on the front side you sweep down over man-made obstacles to your destination. The back side features more of a full flow, free ride straight down to the Fraser River Valley. You'll learn a lot about this sometimes white-knuckle sport on a guided two or three-day excursion which includes a fresh, innovative organic menu.

Go for the unusual. "You did WHAT on your vacation?" If this is the kind of response you wish to elicit from your buddies, here are some humdingers to consider.

Bannock anyone? Hot lava rocks steam and you drip sweat. No problem as this is what you are supposed to do in a First Nations' sweat lodge. Set near a forest above the rushing Fraser, Xats'ull Heritage Village, is light years away from the modern world. The secluded setting, the soft-spoken guide and ancient tales told by an elder showcase the Xats'ull First Nation culture. As well as sweat – believed to be a spiritual as well as physical cleansing – you nibble on bannock, savour fresh fish and vegetables cooked in the earth, learn to ‘dip-net' for salmon, view traditional dancing and overnight in a teepee. It's a magical combo of enjoyment and education First Nations' style. (www.xatsullheritagevillage.com)

Whitewater and spa fusion. Picture a wet rollercoaster of a ride through foamy, white turbulence. Then a cruise on rushing rapids past towering canyon walls. Fast forward a few hours and, to the soothing sound of the rumbling river, your body is rejuvenated with a hot rock massage. Or, to soothe skin ravaged in the heat of this semi-arid desert terrain, your skin is cleansed and healed by a silky mud facial. Here we have the best of both worlds - the wild excitement of a whitewater rafting trip and soothing spa treatments offering the ultimate in relaxation. Chilko River Expeditions (www.chilkoriver.com) runs this combo trip on the Chilcotin, a Class II to IV river – a setting which offers plenty of action for all adventurers. While some trips are designated ‘ women only', it's no surprise these days that even the guys are into feel-good spa treatments.

Girls unite. Speaking of ‘women only', the Cariboo Coast Chilcotin is a great place to gather with adventuresome girlfriends. Choose your adventure: Elysian Resort, located on Quesnel Lake, offers women's fly fishing trips complete with a professional female guide. (www.elysiaresort.com) To saddle up with the girls, head to Elkin Creek Guest Ranch in the Nemaiah Valley. (www.elkincreek.bc.ca) Or conquer high Eureka Mountain, on the western edge of the Cariboo Range on a guided, all-girl wilderness hike with Adrenalin Mountain. (www.adrenalinmountain.com)

Discover the Coast First you ferry, then you drive on the BC Ferry Discovery Coast Passage circle trip that departs from Port Hardy on the northern end of Vancouver Island. Bound for Bella Coola, you experience the beauty of the lush and dramatic coastline. Mingling with fellow passengers, friendly BC Ferry staff point out rushing waterfalls and wildlife - the ferry slows when pods of Orca whales are spotted – and provide tours of the bridge. Shades of a cruise holiday. Some sailings, in fact, stop at remote coastal communities. From the breathtaking beauty of the coast, you drive the steep switchbacks that take you into Tweedsmuir Provincial Park, a wondrous backcountry park that is not easily reached and is much appreciated. Explore the Cariboo before circling back to the Lower Mainland. (www.bcferries.com)

The only challenge when planning a holiday in the Cariboo Coast Chilcotin may be the mindboggling choice.

In order to make the best of adventure travel in the interior of British Columbia, we suggest that you purchase good, reliable guidebooks and maps. Click here for some suggestions.

Related links may be found on our British Columbia Links page.



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